Ullapool Hillwalking

There are many walks in the Ullapool area to suit everyone including mountains, rocky coasts and long inland footpaths. The choice of mountains to climb is numerous and the area has some of the finest summits in the North-Western Highlands. In Ullapool itself, there is the Ullapool Hill Walk, which starts just beside our house.

South-east of Ullapool are a group five Munros, mountains over 3,000 feet. One, Seana Bhraigh, is very remote, although stalker’s paths take you to within a couple of kilometres of the start of the climb. However it is very remote and remember you have to walk back. The remaining four Munros, known locally as the Beinn Dearg group, can be climbed together on a single trip using the path up Gleann na Sguaib. This is also a long day with some significant height to climb to summit all four mountains in one day.

South of Ullapool is the famous An Teallach range with its pinnacle ridge including Lord Berkley’s Seat, a leaning pinnacle. This walk isn’t for the faint hearted nor for the inexperienced.

Further to the south is an area known as the Fisherfield Forest. This is a real wilderness area with a few paths but no bridges to ford the rivers which are often swollen after heavy rain. In this area you must be self-sufficient and carry in your own food, cooking and sleeping equipment. There are six Munros in this wilderness area and three Corbetts, mountains between 2,500 and 3,000 feet to climb. There is a bothy where shelter can be obtained but it is locked on weekdays during the main stag stalking season.

An Teallach More Detail

An Teallach is rated as one of the classic mountains on the west coast of Scotland and offers a full and challenging day out for those who wish to explore its summits. The central ridge encompasses six main tops all over 950m in height (more if you include the intermediate ones on the south ridge) with two more outliers on the northern sides at the 800m level. The mountain is set back from the A832 coastal road and hides all its features when seen from the car driving north - well actually facing south east along the shores of Little Loch Broom. However when driving south along the road - yes actually facing north - and dropping down from the moorland into Dundonnell you can seen directly into the large eastern corrie with the pinnacles of the ridges on this side of the mountain clearly visible. It makes an inviting challenge.

The mountain sports two munros - it used to have only one but it was granted a second in 1981 largely, I suspect, because one seemed somewhat poultry for such a grand mountain. I reckon you could justify giving it six. Both munros can be conquered from the north without the need to traverse the southern ridge - but then you might as well sit at home and look at pictures as you miss all the fun.

An Teallach is somewhat isolated as it is a long way to Ullapool by road (only 10 km for a bird though), the vast expanse of Fisherfield Forest separates it from the Torridon ranges and the mountains of the Fannichs are further east. It was the discovery of a neat small campsite at Badrallach on the opposite shores of Little Loch Broom that opened up the opportunity to explore this classic mountain. The hotel at Dundonnell offering food and liquid refreshment was an added convenience. In 1999 we had completed a week on the Skye Cuillin, the weather had been dry and clear for days, and so we were fit and eager to take to the high ridges.

Beinn an Eoin More Detail

This twin topped mountain is technically an outlier of Ben Mor Coigach but it stands out so far that is half surrounded by Loch Lurgainn. By all accounts it makes a pleasant outing over rough terrain that is rarely walked and giving good views of the cliffs of The Fiddler. We did not get around to tackling this summit until quite late (1998) but if you collect the less popular tops then this is definately one to put on your list. We did hear of the plans to forest the slopes of this mountain and were fortunate to make this walk before the work commenced. This will be the first major plantation in this district and a step that will undoubtedly restrict the formerly free access to the ridges. The view above is taken from the top of Ben Mor and shows the double top of Beinn an Eoin above Lochan Tuath; the mountain behind is Stac Pollaidh - no prizes for that one!

Ben Mor Coigach

This mountain is first seen from the road north of Ullapool as a long high ridge forming an impressive backdrop to Ardmair Bay. The western end of the ridge falls steeply into the sea near Culnacraig with the crest running at 700m for 3 km to the pointed top of Speicin Coinnich. The mountain continues for a further 5 km eastwards as a series of heathery slopes running towards the road junction at Drumrunie. When viewed from the north the ridge is dominated by The Fiddler (Sgurr an Fhidhleir), a great pointed cliff that should be included as part of any ascent of Ben Mor Coigach. The steep and rocky climb onto the long and narrow ridge above Culnacraig had put us off an attempt of the traverse for some time but when we did venture up the hillside we were rewarded with a fine, high and narrow ridge walk.

An Teallach
Beinn An Eion
Ben Mor Coigach
Cul Beag
Cul Mor
Stac Pollaidh
Suilven
The Fiddler